Lights out... on your V11 Sport dash?

Tracing electrical short (FUN!)

  Hope someone else finds this helpful. Found the other evening that the instrument lights were out on the 2000 V11 Sport. Checked and found a blown fuse (5a). Replaced it and turned on switch, and "let there be light!" (Much back slapping and self-congratulation!) Started the engine and the light immediately went out. Fuse blown again!!
  Did a bad thing--put a 10A fuse in the 5A slot. Switch on, lights on, start engine, tac light twinkle and blinks for 2-3 seconds, then ENGINE STOPS AND EVERYTHING IS DEAD! (Modifed stationary panic sets in!) Checked fuses--light fuse intact, 10A fuse for ingition/fuel pump blown!! MYSTERY DEEPENS!! Figured the only place these two circuits come together is the igition switch, so I called Winchester's mechanic and ran it all by him.
  He agreed and suggested replacing the ignition switch as a diagnostic test, and hopefully, a fix. Of course, this would require replacing everything with a lock on it on the bike (By the way, special security fasteners are use on the ignition lock that have to be DRILLED OUT).
  Parts kit arrived, started tearing stuff off to get to the switch. Found out that though the lock is security-fastened, the switch is held to lock with normal phillips screws, so even though M-G doen't offer it separate (yet), you don't have to mess with those fasteners, or change all the other parts on the bike, unless you actually NEED new locks!
  After reasonable time and effort, switch replaced, bike re-assembled, turned key, and LIGHTS OUT!!!, FUSE BLOWN AGAIN!! OK, regroup... Take instrument cover off and find
DISINTEGRATED BULB HOLDER ON TACH!!!! Apparently making contact with tach housing ONLY WHEN BIKE RUNNING/VIBRATING!!! Bulb holder for illumination of tach and speedo is a bad design, plastic contact holder pressed into back of metal bulb holder, spring-loaded to boot, essentially designed to push itself apart!! No goodway to reassemble it too make it any stronger than it is now, so off to search for a better quality bulb holder to replace it with. Key points to remember: Look for failure of those bulb holders, and maybe consider replacing them both if you have the back off the instrument pod for some other reason. (Idiot lights are a different design, no reason to mess with them) AND, you don't have to change all the locks on the bike (and mess with those security fasteners!) if you just need a new switch, even if M-G doesn't tell you so!

John Wells